This tutorial is for the market bags I posted about earlier.
The best shirts to use for these bags are heavier than chambray or poplin dress shirts. Work shirts, heavy cotton broadcloth, corduroy and wool would be excellent choices. The pattern I used was self drafted and tweaked over time. 32.5” tall and 21” wide. There is no wrong shape here. Draft whatever is most comfortable for you.
Press the shirt and lay flat. I am using an XL size. Place pattern on shirt to include the front breast pocket. Mark the shirt using chalk, marker or whatever you normally use. I am using spent soap slivers. They work well on dark colors and wash out without any markings.
Cut out the FRONT SIDE ONLY.
Remove any buttons that find themselves in the way of the seam lines.
Carefully remove the cuffs with a seam ripper. Set aside. If you plan to make an attached cuff pouch follow the directions for the pouch below.
Turn the sleeves inside out. There are two rows of chain stitch. Carefully pull the thread of the chains and undo the stitching. This is something you should learn to do because it saves so much time and effort when upcycling garments.
The sleeve and the side seam of the garment should be opened up. Trim the sleeve away from the shirt.
Piece the handles together with leftover pieces of the shirt.
Lay the back of the shirt flat. With a seam ripper detach the bottom shirt from the yoke keeping the seam intact. Undo pleats, press and fold in half.
Lay out pattern, mark and cut. Piece handles the same as the front.
Sew down the front placket. Turn over and trim about ¾” of the back layers of the placket away to lessen the thickness. Sew the back of the placket down.
Sew strap extensions. Lay pattern over front and back and trim excess.
If you are including a pocket on the back of the bag continue with these directions. If not, skip to Assembly.
Using one of the sleeves, trim the narrow edge ever so slightly to create a straight edge. Measure the width of that edge. Mine measures 13”. Cut a square with the measurement you have. Mine is 13” x 13”. Press edges. Stitch top edge as shown.
Lay the back of the bag right side up. Center the pocket so that it is at least 1 ½ “ from the bottom and top. Pin in place. Sew in place, reinforcing bottom corners.
Assembly: Place back of bag right side down. Place bag front right side up. Pin in place and stitch ⅜” - ½” from edge. Trim to ⅛”. Fold bag inside out and press edge. Sew seam ⅜” from edge. Turn right side out.
Sew handle seams together. Press.
Use ¼” twill tape as a stabilizer. Starting on the edge of the handle or bag opening, place twill tape ¼” from edge and fold edge over tape. Place a pin through all layers to hold in place and remove when you start sewing. Sew over the folded layer thru the twill tape. Sew all around the edges carefully maneuvering the tape and the folded edge. Make sure that the twill tape overlaps at the starting point. Repeat for each edge. Now fold the sewn layers over onto itself and sew all the way around. (note - to avoid the multiple thicknesses at the bag’s side seams, snip to the seam and fold in the opposite direction)
Making the Cuff Pouch: Mark about one inch from the hem of one half of the shirt front. Cut. Fold raw edge in and press. Fold again and press and stitch. Set aside.
Cut two lengths of twill tape the length of the cuffs. Spread glue stick over one side of tape and place half the width of the tape, glue side down into the cuff opening. Slide the other cuff opening over the exposed twill tape. Press, making sure edges meet. Spread glue stick on the other side of the tape and seal both sides of the cuff flat. With the zig zag at widest width and at 1 stitch length, stitch over the center seam creating a join. Button the cuff buttons into the buttonholes. Press flat. Pin one end of the thin strip you sewed to the inside edge of the pouch. loop around the front bag handle and pin to the inside of the pouch next to the other end. Baste. Fold front of pouch in place and sew around the side and bottom edges.
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